The History of Imsil Cheese: It All Began with Father Didier Serstevens
When you think of Imsil County in North Jeolla Province, the first thing that comes to mind is cheese. But how did Imsil become the hometown of cheese in Korea during the 1960s, when cheese was still unfamiliar in the country? At the center of this fascinating story is Father Didier Serstevens, a Belgian priest. Let’s explore how the Imsil cheese we now take for granted came into being, and how the devotion of a foreign priest laid the foundation for Korea’s cheese industry. Discover the roots of Korea’s cheese culture through the history of Imsil cheese.
In the 1960s, a Belgian Priest Comes to Poor Imsil
In 1964, Father Didier Serstevens from Belgium was appointed the parish priest of Imsil Catholic Church. At the time, Imsil was a poor rural area with few job opportunities, causing many young people to leave. Seeing a young man lament, “There’s no land to farm, only grass—what are we supposed to do?”, the priest began to think deeply. Father Serstevens didn’t stop at religious activities; he sought to genuinely improve the lives of local residents. In 1966, he began raising goats. What started as a small project with just two goats became the first step in Korea’s cheese industry.
Father Serstevens studied philosophy and theology at the Catholic University of Leuven in Belgium and was dispatched to Korea in the early 1960s as part of Catholic relief efforts. His first pastoral mission was in Imsil.
From Goat’s Milk to Cheese
Initially, the plan was to sell goat milk to foreigners in Jeonju. However, sales were poor, and he needed a new solution. As production increased, surplus milk had to be discarded. That’s when Father Serstevens came up with the idea of making cheese. In 1967, after finding a coagulant and related books in a desk drawer, he went through many trials and errors to finally produce his first cheese—mozzarella. In 1968, a cheese expert from France came to assist with camembert cheese production, which won an encouragement award at an agricultural and marine product exhibition.
Cheddar Cheese with Skills Learned in Europe
In 1969, Father Serstevens and his colleagues traveled to Europe to learn proper cheese-making techniques. Returning to Korea in 1970, he began producing cheddar cheese, gradually developing it to suit Korean tastes. In 1972, Imsil Cheese signed a supply contract with the Chosun Hotel and entered full-scale mass production. It was the result of Father Serstevens’ efforts, carrying cheese to Namdaemun Market himself to open new sales channels.
Establishment and Growth of the Imsil Cheese Cooperative
In 1966, the “Imsil Goat Cooperative” was formed, managing goat farming and milk sales systematically. In 1972, the focus shifted to dairy cows, and the name was changed to the “Imsil Cheese Cooperative.” In 1981, local dairy farmers established a credit union and converted the cheese factory into the “Imsil Cheese Agricultural Cooperative,” owned and operated by the residents. This led to greater organization and stability in cheese production.
FYI, the Imsil Cheese Agricultural Cooperative is one of the first dairy cooperatives in Korea and has since become a model for regional cheese industries across the country.
The Imsil Cheese Cooperative Today
Today, the Imsil Cheese Agricultural Cooperative has about 200 dairy farmer members and 100 employees. With a hygienic mass-production system, it produces a variety of cheese and livestock products and plays a crucial role in increasing local income and expanding employment. Imsil Cheese uses both cow and goat milk, producing natural and aged cheeses using starters and rennet suitable for Korea’s environment. At the Cheese Village located at 4 Cheese Village 1-gil, Imsil-eup, Imsil-gun, North Jeolla Province, the cooperative also operates hands-on experience facilities.
A Successful Case of Regional Revitalization
Imsil Cheese is recognized as a successful local business model, where a rural region utilized its specialty product to increase revenue and invigorate the area. In the 2000s, based on the brand image of “Imsil Cheese,” a Cheese Village was developed, along with small-scale cheese factories and experience centers. This went beyond simple cheese production, linking with the tourism industry to create greater economic effects. It became a stable source of income for residents and laid the foundation for young people to remain in their hometowns.
At Imsil Cheese Village, visitors can enjoy cheese-making experiences, pizza-making, dairy tastings, and farm tours as part of the tourism program.
The Pioneer of Korea’s Cheese Industry
Imsil Cheese marked the beginning of domestic cheese production at a time when people in Korea had little to no experience consuming cheese. Father Serstevens’ challenge sparked the birth of Korea’s cheese industry. Cheese was once a foreign and smelly food to locals who had never seen or tasted it, but with continued effort and adaptation, it evolved into a product suited to Korean palates. This was not a case of blindly accepting foreign culture, but rather, adapting it to local conditions as an example of regional innovation.
The Miracle Created by One Priest’s Dedication
Looking back on the history of Imsil Cheese, we see how the heartfelt dedication of one foreign priest transformed a region and influenced the nation’s food culture. Father Serstevens was not just a man of faith but a pragmatist who built an economic foundation for local self-reliance. The transformation from two goats in a poor 1960s farming village to today’s cooperative of 200 members and 100 employees is remarkable. It’s a beautiful outcome of one person’s devotion and the community’s cooperation. The story of Imsil Cheese reminds us of the value and potential of local specialties. A small idea and consistent effort can truly change an entire region.